The flywheel magneto and the Dansi electronic ignition is retained but completely rewired. A "Rooster Ignitions" 6V solid state regulator/rectifier is fitted.

Six volts can work but 12 volts is often twice as good. I bought a 6v to 12v step up converter to run a range of items on the bike - instrument lights, indicators and LED daytime running lights. It won't power the headlight, which I left on 6v, but it will do a better job on other things.

(Sorry about the blurry photo)

Apart from the voltage regulation and 12v step-up units, I located most of the loom junctions inside the headlamp on a common connector rail. The theory was that it would make fault diagnosis easy in the future. The reality is too many wires in the headlamp. I will revisit this problem - maybe on another bike!

On an earlier bike my friend Don fitted an ammeter. As I was experimenting (to a certain extent) I also wanted to be able to confirm that charging was occurring at it should. With the ammeter between the gauges there was no room for the warning lights. I moved them instead to the bracket below and used LED lights in the following order: (L to R) Left indicator, high beam, neutral, right indicator. The LEDs are super bright and much more visible than the original 6v globes.

Last touches - the rubber connectors between carbies and airbox are always perished and range between impossible to find and impossibly expensive when you do find them! Again, friend Don to the rescue when he discovered that black plastic swimming pool hose not only fitted perfectly but also threaded itself snugly into the holes in the aircleaner. And doesn't it look like it was made for the job?

Time to bolt the painted parts on and fit the miscellaneous things like fuel lines and indicators. Haven't started her yet but that should happen tommorrow. Bought some badges for the sidecovers from Badge Replicas and I will fit these as soon as I get some clips. The quality of the badges is astounding - indistinguishable from the original items.