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FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Over the past three years I have received hundreds of emails from enthusiasts seeking information to assist with their Bantam restoration. This FAQ is intended to answer the most common of those questions.

How do I match the colour on my Bantam?

The best place for a perfect colour match is the existing paint inside the toolbox or inside the brake hubs. An automotive paint supplier can provide an exact match with their computer colour matching equipment. A number of suppliers, including Bri-Tie in the UK market BSA spec paint for restorers.

Where is the best place for spares?

Compared to many other classics, spares for bantams are plentiful. Look to the Spares page on this site and read the ads in the monthly classic motorcycle publications. Your best resource for spares will always be a BSA Owners Club. Join one!

Should I join a club?

Most definitely. Clubs provide a great resource of knowlege, spares access and in some countries access to cheaper vehicle registration. Don't have pre-conceived notions about a "clubby" nature of the organisations - they mostly seem to cater for a wide variety of people.

Will my B antam be a good investment?

Probably not. A Bantam can typically cost $AUD3,000 to restore ($USD 1,500 or 1000 pounds sterling) and be worth a fraction of that when finished.

Is the unrestored, non-runner Bantam which has been in my shed for 20 years worth a lot of money?

No. Restore it yourself or sell it to someone who is interested. It may be only worth a few pounds/dollars.

Is the performance of a B antam better once the engine has been reconditioned?

Most Bantams are of the early 125cc 3 speed variety. In original road trim they are slow. Expect 40 mph cruising and slow first or second gear ascents of hills. Not suitable for modern traffic.

Why does everyone laugh when I mention Bantams?

It's the sound they make. Or the way they look. Or maybe the way they struggle up hills. Probably it's just that no one ever expected seemingly rational people to restore them!

Where can I buy a restored Bantam?

Caveat Emptor! Join your local BSA Club and start there. Buy the books, read them and get to know the models. There are plenty of Bantams around, don't be in a rush.

Why did they call it a Bantam?

After the chicken of course, but why? My guess is that they are tough little birds, something like that. If someone knows, please let me know. I've always had this mental image of the look on the faces around a boardroom table at BSA when someone announced that they were going to name a motorcycle after a chicken! Was it put to a vote? Things we'll probably never know.

What year is my Bantam?

Check out the engine and frame number reference on this site (Resources) or the BSAOC of Great Britain site.

I'm restoring an early D1 and I want to find an original iron head. Where can I get one?

You can't. To the best of my knowledge all Bantams have alloy heads. Despite the story of an iron head model appearing in print I haven't seen any evidence that one ever existed.

What ratio petroil mixture should I use?

After a lot of discussion on the web about this I contacted an oil company who advised that due to the improvements in 2 stroke oil technology less oil was required these days. I use 25:1 with no problem whatsoever and no smoke either! Never, ever use marine two stroke oils as I am told that this contains detergent additives.

Is electronic ignition available for Bantams?

Yes. Contact C&D Autos. (see Spares page).

How do you measure and correct "endfloat" on the crankshaft?

Thanks to T&G for this answer:
Bolt up the crankcase assembly "dry" (no need to include the gearbox at this stage). Use a large lever in the mouth of the crankcase to ensure that the flywheel is fully to one side. Take a feeler gauge and measure the gap between the rim in the flywheel and the crankcase. Lever the flywheel assembly the other way. Take a second gap measurement at the same point. The difference between the two measurements is the endfloat. Use shims to take up endfloat leaving it between 4 and 6 thou (the shims should be either all on the left or equally on both sides depending on the model).
Note: I built up one motor using this procedure and found that with new bearings it was most inconvenient separating the cases each time. The bearings were tight on the crankshaft and the job was very tedious. I've since made up a "sloppy fit" dummy crankshaft and it makes measuring endfloat very easy. However, if you only have one motor to do then the above method is probably okay.

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